A trip through the ghost towns that tell Montana’s storied past
To really get to know Montana, take a road trip to its old mining camps and ghost towns, places that tell the story of its Wild West gold, silver and copper past, along with their booms and busts. Recently, I set out on a such a trip to learn more about the history that plays a huge stake in telling Montana’s storied past. I started by flying into Bozeman, which makes a great launch point to many sites we set out to see, starting with Virginia City, about 90 minutes southwest.
See A Living Ghost Town
After gold was discovered in the Alder Gulch in 1863 a flood of miners flocked here in search of a big time payday. The old west Victorian gold mining town sprung up and today a walk along a wooden boardwalk shows partially restored historic buildings. Today, you will find period displays illustrating what life was like during the booming frontier days with everything from outfitted stables, old time carriages and toy stores complete with home made dolls and blocks. You will also find a handful of shops selling everything from Western style clothing to souvenirs and homemade ice cream. For a drink, you don’t want to miss the Bale of Hay Saloon, which lays claim to be the oldest watering hole in the state. It’s worth a stop for local beer served with a bowl of peanuts and to see Wild West décor.
Also not to be missed is a tour of the town in a fiery red antique 1941 fire truck, operated by former fire fighter, Scott McClintic. The 35-minute tour focuses on Virginia City history covering everything from vigilantes to road agents and building history: for instance you’ll pass the former “hangman’s building”, where vigilantes once roped up criminals trying to steal gold. The tour also goes to the top of Boot Hill, where these alleged criminals are buried at the top under white wooden picket gravestones.
Come evening head to the Brewery Follies, a live comedy show inside the former H.S. Gilbert Brewery. A cast of five, who also serve as bartenders before the show and at intermission, are pro at comedy sketches, celebrity impersonations and putting their own hilarious spin on popular music with twists of current events. The show is quick to mention it’s far from politically correct. Also note, this isn’t one to bring the young ones on: it’s not geared as a family friendly and leaves plenty of room for racy humor.
See one of the World’s Largest Collection of Old West Artifacts
Just a mile and a half down the road is another treasure trove of history in Nevada City, also a historic gold mining town where more than 2.5 billion dollars worth of the metal was extracted. The town has been restored to an outdoor living history historical museum that includes more than 100 buildings- 14 of which are original to the mining camp, like the Star Bakery. The rest of the buildings were brought in by Charles (and heir to the General Mills Fortune) and Sue Bovey, a couple who made it a point to buy and rescue old buildings and artifacts, moving many to the area in the 1940’s.
Today, it’s one of the largest collections of Old West artifacts, with more than 100 buildings dating from 1863 to early 1900s. Inside you can see everything from Sullivan’s Saddlery (rescued from Fort Benton) a barbershop and even a former jail. You don’t want to miss a stop in the Music Hall, where you will find one of the countries largest collections of automated music machines, some of which have been painted in a unique folk art colorful fashion.
Where to Sleep
Next door to the Open Air Museum you will find Just an Experience Bed & Breakfast. Owners, John and Karma offer 3 guest rooms in the house filled with antiques. For families or those looking for more space or privacy, there are two cabins on site as well, each a full kitchen, common area and loft, queen size bed on the main floor in addition to a loft with twin beds to sleep more. But what’s most impressive is the staircase in one of cabins, anchored by a twisty tree John found in the area. The backyard offers a beautiful view of Montana Mountains and a patio area to take in the beauty. There is a also a hot tub on site and bikes (I need to add more on the bikes, special kind)
Tip: The hotel is across from the Alder Gulch Mining Exhibit, where the feature piece is the massive Mount Vernon Dredge. The machine was used to scoop up gravel that may have contained gold, using a hose and a floating sluice box that filtered the gravel from the heavy metals, which hopefully included gold, and then sent the clean gravel back into the river.
Eat at the Taco Bus
En route to Bannack State Park, which is the next logical destination, don’t miss a stop at the The Fiesta Mexican Food truck in Dillon. Here you will find traditional items like tacos and burritos, but the specials really standout. If they have it, try the Pollo Ranchero – a boneless chicken breast sautéed with mushrooms, green onions and tomatoes with a Mexican kind of sweet and sour sauce. Tortillas, rice and beans are served on the side. Tables are set out front of the bus do you can sit and enjoy.
Explore One Of America’s Most Well Preserved Ghost Town
Inside Bannack State Park you will find one of America’s best preserved ghost towns. Bannack was the state’s first capital (until it moved to Virginia City after gold was discovered here) and in 1862 became the first place gold was discovered. Today, the town is preserved as it was during the gold-rush-era with more than 100 log buildings, some with decorative facades. During its peak, the town was home to hotels, bakeries, blacksmith shops, stables, a grocery store, brewery and saloons. Each year Bannack puts on a Living History Weekend in September and the old businesses come to life with period actors who tell all the locale gossip. You’ll learn about Sheriff Henry Plummer who was accused of leading a gang of thieves in murders and robberies. He was captured and executed by vigilantes on the gallows built by Plummer, a re-creation of which still stands.
Also head inside the saloon where you’ll learn to play games from the era and also can shop for everything from candy to produce at the store. Sheriffs patrol the streets on horseback and mining camps are set up along Grasshopper creek amidst the start of fall colors coming in. At any time though, several of the buildings are open and you can explore inside everything from a school house to the Meade Hotel. And don’t miss a chance to see the cemetery; a short walk uphill to see more than 60 marked gravestones and a view into the valley the town sits. The State Park is open year around but seeing the area as fall colors start to turn is my favorite time to visit.
Travel Tips: Consider flying into Bozeman to start your trip. From here you are about 90 minutes from Virginia and Nevada City. If it’s a later flight, check into the Lark, a downtown former roadside hotel turned hip. Both the modern design and local artwork in rooms and common areas are sure to catch your eye.
Grab breakfast at Feed Café, also in Bozeman, before you head on your journey. Try a breakfast sandwich, like the fungi made with truffled egg, gruyere cheese, local mushrooms and arugula toasted on sourdough. The restaurant, housed in a crimson colored barn, sources local too so you don’t have to be wary about what you are eating.
