Exploring the Best of the Galapagos with Ecoventura

The Galapagos Islands are one of the most untouched, mysterious and pristine places on earth. But the main reason for this well-preserved eco system may be about to change, meaning more tourists could be headed to the islands off the coast of Ecuador in the near future, and this thought made me adamant to visit before this happens.

The reason the Galapagos remain so untouched is largely because the Ecuadorian government only allows 180,000 people to visit each year. And if you do, a guide must accompany you. They follow a tight schedule laid out by the National Park Service that monitors when tourists arrive and how long they can stay. This helps prevent overcrowding and foot traffic on the islands. But there is talk that the Ecuadorian government is considering tripling tourism to increase profit, which would likely forever change the landscape of visiting.

So I booked a trip with my mom to see this unique ecosystem while still pristine. We headed out to sea with Ecoventura for a seven-night cruise aboard the 20-passenger Letty. We cruised over night, arriving at a new island and new adventure each day. Here is a rundown of our trip, from start to finish.

Day One/Two: Guayaquil, Ecuador to San Cristobal Island:

We arrive in the port city Guayaquil, Ecuador from Miami for a one-night stay at the Hotel Oro Verde before our morning departure. The interior Ecuadoran flight to San Cristobal Island in the port town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno takes less than an hour. Here, we meet up with two naturalists, Ivan and Orlando, who will be boarding the ship with us, and serving as our guides for the trip’s duration.

After settling in on the yacht, we take a zodiac to Corolla Beach, where we have our first encounter with sea lions, one of which has managed to waddle the winding stairs of a lighthouse to stretch out on top. How he made it up there, I have no idea, and how he will make it down is just as good of a question. This is the most crowded island we encounter because more than 30,000 people live here and frequent the beach.

Back on the boat, our crew welcomes us with a champagne reception followed by dinner. We opt out of octopus for a vegetarian option of eggs and potatoes enjoying a small group atmosphere and great conversation with our cruise mates for the next week.

Day Three: Punta Pitt & San Cristobal Island

The powerful sound of the motor wakes me up but I am too tired to see what time it is. I fall back asleep to be woken this time by the boat running over big waves, which is not the kind of rocking to sleep you hope for. Come sunrise, light music plays overhead before Ivan’s cheerful voice tells us it’s time to start our “beautiful day in paradise.” I question this only because I can tell just how seasick I am- enough to ditch breakfast and instead curl up on the sun deck until it’ time to hit the land of Punta Pitt.

Here, we have a fantastic and semi-steep walk to the top of the island through lava rock for some incredible bird watching, including a mother protecting her feathery newborn. From the top of the cliff, we take in views of the bay before hiking back down to snorkel and spot fish like the parrot fish rocking a brilliant teal with vibrant pink highlights.

During lunch, we cruise to the south side of San Cristobal Island to Cerro Brujo. As we walk on shore, a school of bright red crabs scurry across the beach. Here, seals don’t seem afraid or phased by the foot traffic, which became a common theme from hear on out. After a quiet walk along one of the most beautiful white sand beaches I have seen, my Mom and I kayak back to the boat where we catch sunset as it melts behind Leon Dormido or “Sleeping Lion,” a rock formation that rises 500 feet out of the ocean.

Day Four: Espanola

After a restful night’s sleep, I awake to find we are a short panga ride away from Espanola Island, the southernmost point of the archipelago. We walk along the cliffs as Nazca boobies fly a foot above our heads. Later, we spot more nestled next to their fuzzy babies. They remain calm when we stop to observe- it’s like we aren’t even there. But it’s a different story from a seal stretched along a walking path that barks as we try to squeeze by. Other seals flop over rocks and body surf in the waves. We also see mockingbirds, Darwin’s Finches and Galapagos Hawks.

Back on board, we cool off by jumping from the third level of the boat after arriving back aboard. Terrified, I finally jump with the encouragement of our captain. It also helped that my Mom leaped before me, earning serious props from other passengers.

A lunch of tilapia and salad fuels us before a siesta and snorkel near Gardner Bay, on a different side of Espanola.

With murky water, we call it short and opt to kayak instead. I purposefully rock the boat, forcing my mom and I to tip, prompting a rescue from Orlando who tows us back to the white sand beach. This is where I was most humored by seals after seeing one flop across a stretch of 6 napping seals who didn’t even so much as budge at the disruption. Wiped out, we enjoy a shrimp dinner and curl up in our cabin for the rest of the night.

Day Five: Floreana

A midnight wake up call and dash to the bathroom lets me know that I am either sea sick, dehydrated or ate something that didn’t agree with me. With little strength, I think about staying on board but quickly decide against this because I know what’s on tap for the day. Each night before dinner, Ivan and Orlando brief us on what to expect the following day- so I know it’s my chance to see flamingos strut those bright pink feathers. I lag behind the group as we pass more sea lions and continue on a trail where I soon see my favorite bird in the far distance walking across a saltwater lagoon.

We continue to walk to the opposite shore of the island where jellyfish (no more than an inch in diameter) and stingrays can be seen just below the surface. On our way back to the boat, our zodiac driver turns quickly after spotting a group of penguins. He tells us this is a rare site, which prompts the cameras to start snapping.

After an afternoon siesta, I wiggle my way into a wet suit before we head to Devil’s Crown for deep sea snorkeling. When a white tip shark swims below us, I immediately high five myself for mustering the strength to take the swim, which becomes gradually harder against a current. I flop back into the zodiac before we cruise to a new spot where the sharp eye of a travel mate spots swimming dolphins! Hot on their tails our boat is teeming with energy as we drive ahead and drop into the water to swim right along.

Next up, we cruise over to Post Office Bay on the opposite side of Floreana. Here, we drop off postcards Orlando passed out for us to fill out on board. We drop them off to a guide manning the station before looking through stacks of other postcards past guests have filled. Here, you are supposed to find one with an address near you so can hand deliver it. The tradition started because toward the end of the 18th century when American and British whalers started leaving mail here in the hopes that someone traveling nearby would drop it off.

Afterwards, our group heads to a lava tube tunnel, which is a naturally formed black cavern. After a steep walk down a wooden ladder, our feet are submerged into chilly ocean water. As we continue, the water becomes deeper and deeper until the tops of our ribs are covered, which is a welcome cool off, even if a little claustrophobic.

Day Six: Santa Cruz

Watch out world because my energy is back to nearly 100 percent as we cruise to the island and town of Santa Cruz for our first full day on land. Here, we board a bus and head to Las Primicias Tortoise Reserve in the Highlands. More than 3,500 tortoises move slowly through the farms thick grass or cool off in mud pits. The creatures used to roam free all over the planet, but now they are only found in two places: the Galapagos and the Seychelles Islands in the Indian Ocean.

Afterwards, we head back to city center to check out the Darwin Research Station, a place that aims to protect tortoises after their near extinction from invasive species and historical hunting. Here scientists raise baby tortoises in a hatchery that has helped the population of these creatures stabilize on many islands.

Instead of heading back to the boat for lunch, we choose to stay on land for a beer, fish sandwich and passion fruit milkshake at a local eatery, The Rock. Afterwards, there is plenty of time to walk through shops in shirts of souveneirs like funny t-shirts that say things like “I love Boobies” with a photo of the blue footed bird beneath it.

Day Seven: Bartolomé, Black Turtle Cove, Sombrero Chino

The day kicks off at Chinese Hat, an island shaped just like the name it’s given. We are the only group on land and admire more sea lions as we walk across trepid lava rock. We take advantage of our last chance to deep-water snorkel on a channel between Chinese Hat and Santiago Island. Penguins swim by rapidly, a stingray sits calmly beneath coral and another white tip shark maneuvers on the sand beneath us. We then cruise on to Bartolome to climb wooden steps to the top of a once active volcano. The cardio burn is welcome as we see Chinese Hat and other islands in the distance.

Day Eight: North Seymour Island and Las Plasas.

We start our day in Las Plasas for our first sight of land iguanas. Talk about patience. These yellow iguanas sit under cactus plants for days at a time, waiting for a single leaf to drop for a meal. We see one pull an adolescent by the neck down the rock, we cheer as she escapes and scurries away.

This island is the crown jewel of the Galapagos bird breeding, and the home of one of the biggest populations of nesting blue-footed boobies and frigates. It is here that you will see the blue-footed booby male doing his mating dance: He raises one foot and then the other off the ground, wiggles his silly little body about, and prances to show off his bright blue feet. The male frigates also have a mating call that also easily captivates our group- they puff up their throats into giant red balloons to try and catch the eye of a lady bird.

Day Nine/Ten

We exit the Letty and spend the morning on San Cristobal before departing back to Guayaquil. Here, we find prime photo opportunites with boats washed ashore and fly back to Guayaquil for another stay at Hotel Oro Verde and full day to spend in the city. Check out this guide for some of our favorite places in the area. It’s worth taking a later flight out so you have time to explore the area.

Accommodations, travel and guidance in the Galapagos were courtesy of EcoVentura, which runs 7-night cruising expeditions around the islands.

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