Off Mountain Experiences in Crested Butte, CO
Famous for some of the most extreme terrain in Colorado, or anywhere in the U.S., Crested Butte is an ex coal mining town turned ski mecca. The runs here go beyond the typical black, taking skiing to an expert level that involves feeling comfortable with jumping off and nailing the landing. And while there is plenty of backcountry terrain for daredevils to play on, there’s also plenty of on mountain fun for skiers of all ability levels, from classic blacks to friendly greens. But perhaps what is most alluring about Crested Butte is its location, far from Denver and the Front Range winter mountain chaos on I-70. Unlike Vail and Breckenridge, where you can wait in lift lines for what feels like hours, in Crested Butte, you won’t find any lines or crowds. In fact, on a weekday in a non-holiday week, you can expect to share the mountain mostly with locals, rather than throngs of inexperienced riders. That said, it isn’t a day trip destination from Denver either, (it’s a nearly four hour drive) and is best visited on a longer trip.
And even if you don’t ski, there is plenty to keep you entertained in this adorable mountain town that’s also home to dynamite restaurants, local characters and an abundance of winter activities. Here are three off mountain experiences to try while visiting.
1. Dine in the Backcountry
Few dining experiences will be as memorable as cross country skiing to the Magic Meadows Yurt for a gourmet dinner amidst live acoustic music and skiing back under the stars. Meet at the Crested Butte Nordic Center to rent gear, then drive 5 minutes to the snow-covered trailhead. You’ll ski for about one mile past fire lit tiki torches before the yurt’s soft glow comes into focus. It’s heated by a wood burning stove, which means instant warmth upon stepping inside. Once inside the yurt, the guides turn into servers offering first a choice of wine, craft beer from Elevation Beer Company in nearby Poncha Springs or strangely, for the cold climate, a Pina Colada made with rum from local Montanya Rum Distillers.
Dinner is served in five courses. Before the main course, enjoy a smoked trout mousse with homemade crackers, a butternut squash soup and kale salad. For the main entrée, there are a few choices, but we loved the encrusted filet of Norwegian salmon topped with a lemon aioli and sides of creamy polenta and vegetable medley. For desert, the tiramisu is an excellent choice.
2. Experience Downtown For Some Good Eatin’
The beautifully preserved Victorian architecture in Downtown Crested Butte is absolutely adorable. Building mandates require all new structures to follow the same suit as the brightly colored gingerbread-trim houses that line the main street. Inside these buildings, you will find all sorts of good eats.
Start the day at Camp For Coffee, a coffee shop just off the main drag, which serves some of the best coffee in the state and is covered with license plates. Check out the Secret Stash for lunch, where you can grab a slice of pizza for under $5, or choose from more than 2 dozen options and order a whole pie A favorite is the Notorious F.I.G. made with prosciutto, dried figs and truffle oil
For a pre dinner drink, head to Montanya Rum Distillers, a spot that makes rum with non-GMO cane sugar game from family farmers in Louisiana, which is distilled with water from a spring fed by snowmelt to make a rum that is catching the attention of many sprits connoisseurs. In snow-covered months, try a hot cocktail like the Manali in winter, which is made with Montanya Oro Rum, Black tea, Chai spices, Vanilla Bean, and whip cream on top. From there, lighten the buzz with a do-it-yourself kind of guacamole from Bonez. Whole avocados, pico de gallo, cotija cheese and garlic cilantro are served in a mortar and mashed with a pestle. There is also a list of tacos that will meet any appetite- my favorite is the lobster tempura.
3. Get a Grasp of the Town and its History
Crested Butte has a kind of spirit that is felt as soon as you meet locals like Glo Cunningham. For 12 years, she served as the director for the Crested Butte Mountain Heritage Museum, but as she nears retirement she has become of the outreach coordinator. Ask her to show you around the building, which was once a hardware store with a blacksmith shop in the back. Today, guests can check out exhibits that showcase everything from the 1800’s coal mining history to the current ways the town stays alive with sports like mountain biking and skiing.
Visitors will also learn about traditions you only find in Crested Butte, like flauschink, a festival that started that started in 1969 when a group of guys wanted to come up with a way to flush out winter and welcome spring. As part of it, a committee crowns a king and queen at the end of the ski season. They are also given decorated toilet plungers (to match the flushing theme) before riding on a float through downtown. Glo was nominated Queen in 2007.
“When I was Queen, my King and I dressed up for other fun events throughout the year, like the Alley Loop Nordic Race. We are a town of happy people who are happy to live here and have an even stronger community through traditions like this,” says Glo.
The Alley Loop is another town made tradition that captivates the entire town. It is a cross-country ski race held in early February that starts and finishes on Elk Avenue, the towns main street. Racers can choose for a competitive 42 k (26.2miles) or opt for more fun races like the 5k (3.1 miles) where most everyone is dressed up in costume.
Where To Stay: Purple Mountain Bed & Breakfast
Purple Mountain Bed & Breakfast dispelled every myth I had about bed and breakfasts, which center around stale bowls of colorful potpourri, out of tune grandfather clocks and awkward conversations at breakfast. We were greeted by the owner, Chris, a very laid back and friendly guy who showed us around the home- a spot built back in 1927 as coal mining offices. Homemade caramel brownie and a hot cocoa bar are almost as enticing as the 5:00 daily beer tasting, where Chris introduces guests to a Colorado Brew.
Come morning, it’s good smells that wake us up before our alarms sound. One our first morning we enjoy an Italian sausage frittata with sweet potato and brussel sprout hash with double smoked butchers bacon on the side. And on day two, it’s hearty blue corn blueberry buttermilk pancakes with orange and cinnamon infused syrup. After a breakfast that will easily keep us fueled for several hours, Chris gives us a rundown of events happening during the day and offers to meet us on the mountain if we want to explore some of the more daring terrain.
