Review: La Posada de Santa Fe Hotel & Spa Resort
Santa Fe, New Mexico is unlike any other place in the world. Founded in 1610, it is the oldest capitol city in the United States. But beyond its historical status, Santa Fe shines as a unique looking city, built almost entirely in adobe, which gives it a look you won’t see elsewhere. And as if this isn’t enough, it’s known for its world-class art scene that is also deeply rooted in local tradition.
In Santa Fe, art is everywhere, and the vibe is very European, reminding me of the colorful charming artist villages like Antibes and Le Cannet in the South of France. Wanting to get the most out of an art-focused trip, I decided to stay at La Posada de Santa Fe a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, which has become known as the “art hotel of Santa Fe.” It’s set up inside a former 1880’s mansion that later became an art colony where famous artists like Georgia O’Keefe stayed before it was turned into a resort.
I usually can’t wait to hit the ground running after checking into a hotel, but here I decide to take my time walking around the property, looking at art for purchase displayed all over the main corridor. It feels more like an interactive gallery than a hotel, and with the work of more that 50 different artists on display, it also offers something for everyone.
La Posada’s art curator, Sara Eyestone, works with artists from across the country, giving them a chance to showcase their talent on the hotel grounds and to be able to sell their creations with less of a mark-up than you’d see at galleries on Canyon Road.
“We sell the art like it was sold in the early days, at the studio prices of the artists. There is not a gallery that can afford to do that, but La Posada is not a gallery. It is a hotel and we make our living as a hotel, not with the art,
” Eyestone said. “The art changes constantly, not because we take it down and have new artists, but because we sell so much art and the artists continue to work hard at their easels and send more.”
Guests who purchase a piece of art end up with a perk from the property too: an extra nights stay at half the rate with resort fees waived.
Speaking of rooms, guests at La Posada stay in adobe casitas, some of which date back more than 200-years and many of which feature original adobe walls and kivas (fireplaces). The vibe is historic Southwestern chic and everything feels comfortable but luxurious. Also onsite is the Spa Sage, a full service spa and salon, offers a list of treatments unique to the region and that are locally inspired. Try the Sprit of Santa Fe, a blue corn exfoliation with a massage and wrap infused with desert sage essential oil.
There are also a few different dining options onsite. At breakfast, dine at the Patio, where tables with bright red umbrellas are set outside to take advantage of the 300 plus days of sunshine found in the city. Order the Huevos Rancheros, like I did, but ask for it to come topped “Christmas style” with both red and green chili, so you can taste both styles. I tried the green chili first, which comes out cut into thin chunks and has a bold and fresh flavor. But it was the red Chile that won me over, even at 8 a.m.; I couldn’t wait to spread the smoky and smooth sauce on my eggs. For dinner try Julia. Here top menu items include the roast Colorado lamb with stone ground mustard and local honey. For dessert, the dark chocolate ganache pueblo is an art form itself, taking the shape of the name and served with cocoa powder on the side and chocolate crumbles.
If you go: La Posada is two blocks from the historic plaza where you will find several cultural attractions like the Santa Fe Opera House and Georgia O’Keefe Museum. It’s an hour drive from Albuquerque International Airport and 20 minutes from the Santa Fe Airport.
Here are some of my favorite Santa Fe experiences:
1. Loretto Lines
This open air tram, open mid March through Oct. 31, takes guests on an 8-mile loop for a narrated tour to see some of the cities highlights like Museum Hill, the Canyon Road Art District and to see views of mountain peaks like Sandia. This is a great way to cover a lot of ground, especially if you are short on time, or to get a lay of the land and background on the history of the city.
Pricing: $15 Adults, $10 Kids.
2. Santa Fe Farmers Market
In the trendy Railyard District, this market is open year around on Saturdays, and on Saturdays and Tuesday May through November. After the fall harvest, this is the spot to stock up on hatch those green chili peppers New Mexico is famous for. Walk around to sample everything from different kinds of apples and of course salsas and sauces made with a southwestern kick.
3. Canyon Road
Here you will find close to a hundred galleries, boutiques and restaurants in less than a mile showcasing the work of jewelers, weavers, painters and sculptors along an inclined road that is Santa Fe’s main art district. When it first became hot, more than half a century ago, artists used to live on Canyon Road and sell their creations from their living rooms, but this practice ended in the 70’s, as it became a more commercial spot with raising rent prices. Many individual artists were driven out, but some, like Sara Novenson, remained. Norvenson has been showing her art at a Canyon Road gallery since the 1970’s, and said it’s still one of the best spots to meet artists you are buying work from. “I think it’s important to have that connection with people who are buying work form you. I love the interaction and conversations I can have with customers and they come from all over the world”
4. Shopping
I have yet to leave the Southwest without purchasing jewelry. On this visit, I came across a stand called Rainbow of New Mexico, an open-air jewelry stand at Water Street and Old Santa Fe. Native American influence plays into the designs with the use of colorful stones, bones and shells to make pieces. I choose a necklace from a light aqua marine heishi shell that is carved into small crosses strung side by side. Don’t skip strolling along the wall of the Palace of the Governors downtown on the Plaza. Here. Native Americans sell their jewelry and pottery at very fair prices.
Where to Eat:
1. Casual: Tia Sophia’s
On a Friday at noon, I walk into Tia Sophia’s and snag the last open table before this local’s favorite goes on a wait. For more than 40 years, this family owned spot has been serving large portions with fair prices. I decide on the Artisco Plate, which is a cheese enchilada smothered in a green Chile stew with beans and pisole on the side for 10 bucks. Stars like Giada De Laurentiis and Andrew Zimmerman have visited this spot.
2. Upscale: The Compound
Before turning into a restaurant, the compound was a retreat for famous guests filming or painting in the area like Georgia O’Keefe and John Wayne. Today, guests come for a menu that focuses on the best flavors of the season. Find everything from salmon, beef, red snapper and duck breast served in an elegant way. Tip: Start with the fresh cauliflower soup, the creamy broth is poured tableside over a pear and ricotta agnolotti and brown butter seared cauliflower.
3. Interactive: Santa Fe School of Cooking
At the Santa Fe Cooking School, we were greeted with a glass of wine before we put on aprons to start rolling tamales with instruction from Michelle Chavez, whose upbeat personality makes cooking fun even for the non-domesticated. Here you can take either a demo class where chef instructors show you how to make different southwestern style staples or take a demo class which is hands on to participate in the making the cuisine.