Travel Guide for Perfect Vacation In Banff National Park
Few mountain ranges in the world rival what you will see in Banff National Park. The Canadian Rockies are simply legendary- noted by the sheer size and infinite jagged peaks that you can’t help but marvel at. This is Canada’s first national park (third in the world) and is a place any outdoor lover will be giddy over. Summer time is peak season but a visit in the winter shows off the abundant snow and a special kind of magic that comes with significantly less tourists. Here are 7 of my favorite activities when chasing mountains in Western Canada.
1. Cave & Basin National Park
I recommend starting the trip here because this is the birthplace of Canada’s National Parks System. In the 1880’s three-railway workers came across the thermal springs (though Aboriginals discovered it several thousands year before) and felt a need to protect it, leading to Banff Hot Springs Preserve, which later became Banff National Park.
Visitors can walk through a dimly lit tunnel to see the underground cave and bubbling thermal waters. Outside, the journey continues to see the basin, where if you look hard enough you will notice the Banff Snail, which can’t be found anywhere else in the world. Swimming was allowed until 1992 but Parks Canada no longer allows people to dip in to protect the endangered snail.
You also don’t want to miss the museum inside, which is set up inside the now restored former bathhouse and traces the history of the area.
2. Ski at Sunshine Village
This resort straddles the Continental Divide, which not only means that you feel like you are set apart from the rest of the world, but also that you can most always expect fresh snow. The resort uses snow farming (and no snow blowers) which means there are usually plenty of powdery pockets. I just started skiing last year and have yet to experience powder, so when I rolled over it for the first time, I couldn’t help but smile and cut across the hill for more untouched tracks.
The mountain is full of daring terrain and backcountry ski areas like the Wild West and Delirium Divide- to enter you must have a transceiver, shovel, probe and partner because it’s in avalanche territory. But there are also plenty of options for people who prefer green and blue runs, which my guide, Jason, and I stick to. A few favorites are the World Cup Downhill Course on Lookout Mountain and Sunshine Coast on Goat’s Eye Mountain- the longest run of our day that eventually takes us back the base. If you visit, make sure to check out the Teepee Town LX- the only heated chairlift in Canada that also features a protective shield to keep wind at bay.
Insider tip: Check out Sunshine Mountain Lodge, which is Canada’s only ski in ski out resort. Premiere rooms in the newly added West Wing open up directly to the ski resort. Views from the floor to ceiling windows show chairlifts headed by carrying skiers and boarders. Rooms are decorated with a contemporary mountain feel, have fireplaces and plenty of space to feel at home.
For dinner check out Chimney Corner, located inside the resort, where the best seat in the house is right in front of the dining rooms fireplace. Order the wild boar shank and the Chinook farms honey comb parfait for dessert. For an after dinner drink, head over to the Mad Trappers Salon, set up in a log cabin built in 1928.
Getting there: The resort is about 10 miles from the town center of Banff, Alberta. When guests arrive, they take an 8-person high-speed gondola from the base of the mountain to reach the lifts.
3. Snowshoeing on Top of The World
For a real snowshoe hike (meaning deep powder and above tree line start!) across the Continental Divide, book a tour with White Mountain Adventures. The trek starts at the top of Mount Standish. To get here you’ll take the gondola from the base of Sunshine Village Ski Resort; then catch a lift that drops off on top of the Continental Divide, which is also the boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Up top, snow conditions can be anything from white out to a bluebird day. And while I was hoping for the latter, I ended up with the first. In the end though, I couldn’t have had more fun in what felt like a more intense kind of winter with fresh snow and low visibility.
Our guide took us through fresh powder for the hike, which ended up being about 2 miles through flat and downhill backcountry trails. My favorite part (surprisingly) were the times we tumbled in the snow because you can’t help but laugh. And it doesn’t hurt because you land in a big pile of fluffy powder. Along the way we stopped to slide down a bigger hill, using the back of our shoes to ride down to more deep powder. Other perks to this trip includes jumping from the top of a rock into fresh snow (great for Instagram photos) and hiking in a place where the only noise is the sound of your breath and whish of the snow shoes, and no people other than your group will be visible. And at the end, when you’re really cold and ready for them, you’ll be treated to hot chocolate and cookies.
4. Hike Through Johnston Canyon
One of the most popular hikes in Banff National Park is Johnston Canyon, an area that was once under water, but now showcases an Upper and Lower falls, that are both stunning to look at. The 3.2-mile roundtrip hike starts off the Bow Valley Parkway and follows snow packed trails, some of which lead over catwalks so you can see right into the canyon. Before starting, our guide, Anick, with Discover Banff Tours, supplies ice cleats that help offer more traction in the snow.
After walking for 5 minutes I ohh and ahh with the first site of frozen water falls across the canyon.
“It just gets better,” Anick tells me. “Wait until we make our way up the trail more.”
Before long we are standing at the base of the Lower Falls and walk through a cave to see them even more closely. The waterfall has frozen into a sheet of frozen ice but with a few days of warmer temps the middle portion has melted- allowing splashes of water to jut towards us.
We then make our way up to the Upper Falls, where the trails starts to get steeper but it’s only three quarters of a mile until we reach the top. Here, the start of the show is massive frozen icicles that cling sturdily to the frozen over waterfall. On our way down we hear one crash sending the noise halfway down the canyon.
5. Fat Biking
When captivated by the Canadian Rockies, a cardio workout has never felt so easy. We took off on our Fat Bikes (rented from Soul Ski and Bike: $15/hr or $50 full day) and headed to ride the Tunnel Bench Loop- a legitimate single-track flowy mountain bike trail. Here, you feel a world away from the town because you are surrounded by a dense forest and can catch awesome views of Mount Rundle, Cascade Mountain, the Fairholme Range and hoodoos. There is minimal climbing making the trail perfect for beginner (but in shape) to intermediate mountain bikers. Just beware that the trail rides close to the edge at times. The full loop is just over 3 miles and is about a 10 min drive from town. You can find directions here.
Pro Tip: Parking downtown is free, with most areas limited to 2 hours but upper levels of parking garages are free up to 8 hours.
6. Explore Town & Sip Sprits
After a day in the mountains, whether fat biking, skiing or hiking, it’s always fun to wrap up with a social scene. In town, Banff Ave. is the main drag with all kinds of shops, nightclubs and restaurants set up on streets named after the wildlife the area is famous for- think streets named Bear, Fox, Falcon Eagle, Buffalo, Caribou, Cougar (I hope I don’t run into that one).
A local’s favorite is the Park Distillery, the only distillery in a national park, and makes whiskey, gin and vodka with water run off from Victoria Glacier in Lake Louise. The food is campfire inspired cooking with menu items like wood fired lamb chops and a massive steak sandwich. Spirits here (whiskey, gin, vodka) are distilled in house. Order a creative cocktail like the cougars milk made with Park Vanilla Vodka, Park Espresso Vodka, condensed milk, honey and butter, hot water and cinnamon. It may sound pretty sweet but has a smooth finish.
7. Fairmont Hotel
Who doesn’t want to sleep in castle? The Fairmont Hotel, built in 1888 by the Canadian Pacific Railway, was rebuilt following a fire in 1928 and is now modeled after a Scottish baronial castle. And it’s absolutely massive- with more than 700 guest rooms, 13 restaurants, several shops, ballrooms and lounges. Plus a fitness center (with classes offered throughout the week) indoor pool, hot tub and an outdoor heated pool with wonderful views.
Throughout, you will find elegant and ornate touches with several pieces imported from all over the world.
Even if you are not a guest at the hotel, it’s worth coming to check out and have a drink or dinner. 1888 Chop House is where to go for prime cuts of Alberta beef. Or, try out Grapes Wine Bar for the dried meats, cheese and of course wine.
The hotel is a 5-minute drive to town and is in the middle of the mountains you likely came to chase.